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Label

Duckhorn Vineyards 2002 Howell Mountain Merlot

75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon
(picture at left is for 2003 which has a different blend)
Country: USA: California
Region: Napa Valley
Price Paid: $70
Date Tasted: August 10, 2007


ON THE NOSE:

Deep rich fruit aromas of dark cherry and very ripe plums, dark chocolate and sweet cream. A very pleasant nose though not very complex beyond the fruit. Rich and plump, however, like one of those oversized deep leather chairs that relaxes every part of your body making you first want to read, then fall asleep.

ON THE PALATE:

Unfortunately this wine made us want to sleep. This is a very strange wine to us, and it is proving difficult to write this review. This wine does not taste cheap – and indeed it was not – yet it also doesn’t have enough complexity to warrant its high price (though that high dollar amount is partly due to local prices, which we find are higher than prices we find online). Still, a wine should be reviewed and judged on its own merits without regard to price or pedigree.

Yes, this Merlot does have a nice deep, plush fruit-forward flavor profile going for it, but honestly there is not much else here. As Darcey and I sat drinking this wine Darcey said something I found interesting: “This wine is actually hard to drink!” Although perhaps a little difficult to explain that statement succinctly to the reader, I knew instantly what she meant. Yes, it IS smooth, but then it is also harsh, mostly due to a bit too much acidity with virtually no tannic backbone. The mouthfeel is indeed silky, but the acidity ruins it all. It being late August and the tomatoes starting to pile up on the counter I at one point sliced a tomato to simply eat and enjoy, and THEN the wine was better, as if perhaps the acidity of the tomato balanced this wine out more. One shouldn't have to eat a tomato, of course, in order to enjoy a $70 Merlot!!!

We must also point out that the heat remains evident on this wine even four hours after decanting, I mean this is an aspect we felt would mellow with oxidation, but it has yet to calm down. This wine is a major pass, and a confusing offering whose makers should really learn a lesson and try to do it right with their next effort. I've read favorable reviews online but I have no idea what they are thinking, drinking, or smoking! It could be, I admit, that we had a bottle that was bad in some way, but it was not corked nor oxidized. The cork looked good and I don't believe it was spoiled by heat. This wine is simply not happening! Perhaps it is too young? The winery does say, however, that all of their wines are ready to drink when released, so, again, this wine is just not happening. If the winery would like to send us another bottle we would be happy to taste it again and alter this review, if necessary.


(Click here for an explanation of our ratings ...)

Our Rating: 82

Would we drink it again?

Nah, I'd rather drink the $7.99 Navarrita Merlot!

Would we buy it again?

Never again!

Winemaker's notes

In 1880 the St. Helena Star contended that Howell Mountain "would be to California what Medoc is to France." In 1983, Howell Mountain was approved as a viticulture appellation, confirming what the turn-of-the-century growers already knew about the uniqueness of the region. The elevation creates a weather pattern that is often an inversion of the valley floor. As a result of cooler spring temperatures, bud break is delayed. The summer temperatures are warm at night, and as a result, the fruit demonstrates a great balance between acidity and sugar. Duckhorn Vineyards has utilized grapes from the Howell Mountain appellation since 1978. Beginning in 1989, we produced a meritage blend from fruit grown entirely within the district, and in 1993 we bottled our first Howell Mountain Merlot. We believe that this wine will be the Medoc of our portfolio.

About the Winery: Duckhorn Website

Co-founded by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn in 1976, Duckhorn Vineyards has been crafting classic Bordeaux varietals from the Napa Valley for 30 years. This winemaking tradition has grown to include seven meticulously farmed estate vineyards, located throughout the various microclimates of the Napa Valley.

About the Region

The first Napa Valley microclimate to be designated an AVA, Howell Mountain is renowned for magnificently complex wines of earthy austerity and elegant robustness. Overlooking St. Helena from the Vaca Range on the valley’s northeast side, the appellation encompasses around 14,000 acres, yet possesses only 600 acres of vines. The region is rugged, with ... [>] Read More vineyards at 1,400-2,200 feet above sea level, avoiding the influences of fog that often blankets the valley floor below. Even so, Howell Mountain receives cool Pacific breezes. Largely due to the elevation, the climate here is characterized by moderate temperatures that are cooler than in most other parts of the valley. While vineyards in the valley are often blanketed in fog, those on the mountain are enjoying sunshine. The soils of this area are mostly well-drained tuff and volcanic rock. Water retention is poor, producing vines with low vigor and deep roots. Howell Mountain is well known for its Bordeaux varieties and Zinfandels, as well as for its ever expanding collection of prestigious awards.



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