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Label

Pieve Del Vescovo Lucciaio Vendemmia 2002

45% Merlot 40% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Sangiovese
Country: Italy
Region: Umbria
Price Paid: $14.99
Date Tasted: June 16, 2007


APPEARANCE:

Very nice dark ruby color which you can see through, but just barely; not quite black, nor inky, but holding its own.

ON THE NOSE:

For the first 2-and-a-half hours the nose on this intriguing wine was, well, much like the odor of a men’s room. I know, I know, that doesn’t sound appealing and, in a way, it truly isn’t, but yet in another way it held our interest. I must also admit here that Darcey liked it less well than me, yet we both agreed that it was different. I use the word “funky” to describe the nose of some wines, but this goes beyond funky to another adjective completely: let’s say, uh, smelly! STILL though, I respected it from the start, perhaps because I have smelled so many wines now that bring to mind all of the same things – you know: cherry, licorice, chocolate, currants, etc. – that it was actually refreshing to put my nose right in there and smell something unusual. Don’t be turned off, though, because if you are patient with this Italian offering the dividends will show after four hours or so. Eventually some fruit comes through – raspberry and blueberry with a little sour cherry – as well as unsweetened licorice, some toast and creaminess (from the barrique aging?), some chocolate, a hint of saddle-soap and the tiniest trace of orange-peel. A certain green and earthy quality shows itself to the tolerant imbiber too, if you wait, much like a Pinot Noir; perhaps this distinction comes from the 15% Sangiovese blend, which truly makes this wine unique, in my opinion.

ON THE PALATE:

The “men’s room” aroma never carried through to the palate which assured quality right from the get-go. One thing Darcey and I absolutely love about the process of drinking wine – and it is indeed a process – is the initial nose and the initial palate, just after opening a wine. Opening a new bottle always brings a sense of excitement and even a sense of togetherness as we mutually venture into the unknown, never knowing what we will find, sometimes frowning in disappointment but always willing for a wine to surprise us, as so many do.

As this Lucciaio opens up, and DO let it open up, I beg of you, it brings a little piece of Umbria with it, I want to believe, in a special blend that satisfies the old-world fan in us with a flair of grace and incredible balance between the smooth tannic structure and the perfect acidic blend. The fruit becomes deep and satisfying, but not sweet, which we liked quite a bit, carrying through to include some leather and tobacco, maybe even a hint of carrot tops, and finishing decently long with grace and aplomb making you want more, and happy to be alive in a world where wine is available. The 15% Sangiovese adds the typical sourness, like a sour cherry, to the acidity, I think, which is something I don't particularly like in Chianti but do like with this 15% blend here, especially coupled with the noble Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The whole affair, though elegant, could be silkier and more polished, I admit, but there is something here that, at the risk of repetition, simply satisfies. This wine is sexy. Period. It doesn’t claim to be something else, is not trying to be what it is not, and is an absolutely honest lover offering its wares without apology and without complaint. We didn’t complain, and are happy we bought two bottles of this little fucker. With all of that said I know that this wine will not be liked by some, but for those of you looking for something different – and that really should be the sign any true connoisseur – this one may be worth a try, and at $15 it won’t break you. We’ve tried many others at this price point that we like, maybe even prefer, sure (I’m thinking of one of our favorite $14 bottles: Bodegas Tintoralba Crianza), but we’re also very happy we stopped here for a bit, took a breath, waited for the wine to present its inner essence, and enjoyed a fine evening with fine company (OK, it was just us, but we get along famously).


(Click here for an explanation of our ratings ...)

Our Rating: 90

Would we drink it again?

Yes, and the next time we’ll simply open it and wait four hours before digging in (though I admit I will smell it at first to reacquaint myself with that unique “men’s room” bouquet – I just won’t be able to help myself).

Would we buy it again?

Yes, actually, though we did say “no” two hours into this experience! Like I mentioned: we’re happy we have another bottle to enjoy, and at $15 it is a decent value. You really should try it, but let it breathe and open up for several hours first!

Wine Spectator Notes

"Impressive nose of crushed blackberries and licorice. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, chewy finish. Big wine. A blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Sangiovese. Best after 2005. 3,910 cases made. (JS)"

About the Umbria Region in Italy

The splendid countryside of Umbria with its lime rich soils and cool conditions is thought by many to have as great a potential for excellent winemaking as Tuscany. This potential has only begun to be realized. Beside the world market for Orvieto, Umbrian wines are rarely recognized outside of Italy. Orvieto was once one of the most celebrated of Italian wines praised by artists, princes and popes who spent time in the beautiful hill town north of Rome absorbing magnificent vistas and the glorious cathedral. Since that time, Orvieto has gone from a semisweet wine to a pure, crisp and delicate example of modern technology.

Other varietals of note include the prestigious red Torgiano as well as Sagrantino, a vine that grows around the hilltop town of Montefalco and yields notable wines both dry and sweet. Contrary to Tuscany where they are relative newcomers, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have been prominent in Umbria for more than a century, which means that much is already known about clonal selection and specific vineyard sites for these varietals. Barbera and Pinot Nero have recently shown promise. Umbrians also prize the Vin Santo they make from semi-dried Grechetto and Malvasia grapes.

The mountains to the north and east envelop Umbria and benefits from a bounty of fresh water in the form of springs, lakes and rivers, most notably the Tiber. Most vineyards consist of calcareous clay and sand that is rich in limestone and similar in color to the soil of Champagne. Rainfall is ample in cold months with summers that are sunny yet cooled by breezes that keep the vineyards from becoming overheated.





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