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Label

Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2003

Italy:
Region: Chianti Classico: Greve in Chianti
Price Paid: $24.99
Date Tasted: June 2, 2007


Introductory Remarks:

Opened and drank this wine by myself while Darcey was away in Louisville. This is really the first serious Italian wine I have tried. To me the very word Chianti brings to mind that awful, awful wine my parents used to drink at Thanksgiving in those silly little bottles wrapped in straw, saved as kitsch for the bookshelves. It was bad wine, and I remember hating wine back then because of wines just like this, even though I was thrilled that we got to have several glasses at this special time of year – thrilled that we got to drink something alcoholic, which was forbidden the rest of the year (Christmas and New Years’ excluded, of course). So, here I am, some 30 years later trying Chianti once again; let’s give it a whirl!

First nose:

Mmm, right off the bat this wine made me smile, asking me to believe that this was the beginning of a decent bottle. We’ll see! Nice plum aroma mixed with that ubiquitous red-wine black cherry, something I am really getting used to in reds. Also present is some wonderfully fresh underarm perspiration, which I really like. Definitely a complex nose, though not too different from some of the other nice reds I’ve been drinking lately. Sometimes I like something different, though, so at first, here, I am a little disappointed, but maybe this is a good introduction to Italian wines: something familiar. I can tell the quality is there, I’ve just got to wait now to let her open up some.

First palate:

I always try the wine first, before letting it sit, to gauge where it is versus where it will be hours from now. This Chianti has a nice smooth mouthfeel at the outset, not too tight and with promise of good times ahead. A bit hot on the finish initially – well, maybe more than a bit hot – with not enough balance overall, yet, but good structure. The acidity seems pretty high in relation to the tannins and the fruit, but that could be what the Sangiovese grape IS, after all, or so this is what I’ve read, which seems accurate according to my mouth right now. There is a little sting at the front of the palate that shocks you a bit, making this not as velvety as I might like, but let’s give it more of a chance.

Later nose:

Ahhh, now it’s getting more interesting and distinct, not a run-of-the mill red, with perfumed cabbage in a beef stew. Brussels sprout, yup, there they are, being brought to the table by your big Aunt Mabel with the overpowering perfume, trying to conceal her incessant perspiration. I LIKE this muskiness that this Chianti is now showing, making me apologize for the thought, earlier, of this being like so many other reds, and although it still IS like many other reds, it is yet different from the Spanish, French, and California reds. Definitely different than every Australian I have had. This wine has some aspects of Pinot Noir, but in a heavier format, and still the typical cherries and plum of traditional Cabs, or similar blends; a good blend, I think, between Old and New World styles, as I understand them. Shows obvious barrel aging, but not overly so: this is oak adding goodness and roundness, not over-the-topness. Tobacco is here too, not from your grandfather’s leather pouch, but rather from the bottom of your Aunt Mabel’s black purse, with all that perfume mixed in there. Hmmm, perhaps this perfume is getting to me a bit, as it would if you sat next to Aunt Mabel in church. And wow, something in here is really BRINGING me to a large cathedral, with the tall ceilings and stained-glass windows and the long oak pews … ???

Later palate:

This Chianti is coming along nicely, I think. I am happy to be here, alone, with this glass in my hand on my bed. I am learning through this bottle that the Sangiovese grape has a lighter tannic backbone than I am used to, but I am not minding that here. The finish disappears for a second, then hits the throat with the heat and dripping tobacco-fruit. I think that’s what the strong acidity is doing, holding your palate right up there for a moment before allowing the finish its proper due. Now, however, the tannins are showing their pride by blending with the acidity, which is, I admit, playing nicely, not feeling threatened (how could it!), not kicking up a fuss. I seem to need to learn the same lesson again and again with these quality red wines, which is PATIENCE! Once I gave this Italian contender a chance, it became a friend. I’m sitting here looking at my wine glass, a third full of this honest elixir, wondering, amazed in the knowledge, how so many can drink crap, like, for instance, that stuff from Australia with the kangaroo on it. What are they tasting? Are they simply drinking and not thinking about WHAT they are drinking? It must be that. Good wine is all around us; there is no reason to drink crap. Those of you in the know, please help your brethren taste the difference. Actually, no, WAIT! Cancel that, imagine how the prices would soar if everybody was demanding good wine! Let’s keep these good little secrets to ourselves! I’ll have to seek out more of these Chianti Classico wines, and soon, as Darcey and I have been waiting patiently for our Italian phase to kick in (we’re still heavy into Spanish wines right now). I’m bummed she isn’t here to share this one, but now that I have a taste, I’ll want more, so she’ll get her chance. Again, the high acidity takes a little getting used to, I think. I took the opportunity to try the wine with food, since I didn’t have to share it with anybody, so I had some homemade spaghetti. I want to remind the reader that I am a wine-first guy, but this wine did not detract at all from the Italian meal, nor the food detract from the wine, BUT, neither did either help the other too much. The acidity of the Chianti just came barreling through no matter what. Overall, though, I am liking this wine. At $25 it is only fair to midland in the QPR quotient. Good nose, good quality mouthfeel, and a fun evening.


(Click here for an explanation of our ratings ...)

Our Rating: 89

Would I drink it again?

Yes!

Would I buy it again?

No, I’d rather try other Chiantis before buying this particular one again. It wasn’t all that special, really, and there truly are many others to try.

About the Winery: Tenuta di Nozzole

In the decades following World War II, and particularly in the 60s, Italy underwent drastic changes which lead to higher economic growth and to significant improvements in the quality of life. During those years the wine business was also heavily affected and the Folonaris were amongst the leaders in promoting its evolution. Anticipating what would be the future trends in wine consumption, they took a new and original direction for the time and started producing high-quality wines, setting new standards for Italian wines in the world. In line with this increased focus on higher quality wines, in the late 60s the family sold the ‘Fratelli Folonari’ brand, whose positioning was more towards the table wine market segment and started to focus on estate wines. For this reason in 1971 they first bought Nozzole, a very famous estate located near Greve in Chianti, right at the heart of the Chianti Classico area. At the same time they also purchased several other properties in Tuscany with the aim of producing signature wines. In the 80s Ambrogio created the Cabreos , high quality wines which represent a unique combination of tradition and innovation. In fact the Cabreo Il Borgo (red) is a blend of traditional Sangiovese variety and Cabernet Sauvignon, while Cabreo La Pietra is a highly innovative white wine for Tuscany made with Chardonnay grapes fermented and aged in oak. These wines were among the first in a new group of top wines now widely known as “the Super Tuscans”.

About the Chianti Region

Chianti is made uup of an extensively mountainous area located in the center of Tuscany between Florence and Siena. It is composed of 8 municipalities, SGaiole in Chianti, Radda in Chianti, Catellina in Chianti, Tavarnelle & Barberino Val d'Elsa, Greve in Chianti, & San Casciano. The landscape is characterised by alternating valleys, hill and steep peaks. The entire area is scattered with ancient hamlets, churches and abbeys, turreted castles and fortresses, farmhouses, villas and both paved and dirt roads.

The Tuscans have long been leaders in wine tours and "Enotourism". There are plenty of "Enotecas" (wine bars), where the wineries have long offered their wines by the glass, uncommon in other parts of Europe. Perhaps one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world, Chianti Classico is an area that has miles and miles of hill topped medieval villages and valleys covered in vines, all between the two beautiful cities of Florence and Siena. The three principal villages in Chianti Classico are "Gaiole in Chianti", "Castellina in Chianti" and "Radda in Chianti", Radda being the most boutique region in terms of upmarket wines (and a lovely quaint village to visit). The region has been making wine for centuries, indeed since the epoch of the Etruscans (over three thousand years ago). During the medieval period, there were vicious battles between the lordships of Florence and Siena, and hundreds of castles and fortresses were built. In more peaceful times, these historic building gradually became luxurious private residences and villas and many of them house wineries today.

The vines and olive trees that cover the region of Chianti Classico now are quite a few hundred years old (there are plenty of 600 year old olive trees to be found on private estates, monasteries, etc) but interestingly before they were planted, the region was covered with cast oak forests. There are documents dating back to 1398, describing the commercial nature of wine production in the Chianti Classico zone! However, it wasn't until the 17th century that Chianti really gained a name for itself abroad. Most European foreigners even then became familiar with the straw covered flasks of this rich, red wine. But Chianti has come a long way from those dusty old flasks!




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