ON THE NOSE:
Shampoo, some sour cherry, green pepper, kerosene and just a hint of cream in the back. Actually this wine smells like something between a cheap Monastrell and a cheap Chianti to me. Neither Darcey nor I particularly like this nose at its first pour. We have decanted the bottle and we’re hoping that with time it will improve.
We have to report that several hours later the nose has not improved markedly, although there is a touch more fruit here, and a smidgeon more sweetness; I also smell something akin to tiger lilies, but we find we are simply not impressed with this nose, not at all!
ON THE PALATE:
This Merlot tastes, at first, a lot like what it smells like at first; not that great. I would never guess that this is a Merlot if I were to taste it blind. After a weak attack I get an acidic punch of soap and chemicals: YUK! The finish is extremely soapy, and I know that it is not the glass I am using because I carefully wash each glass ONLY with hot water and rinse with fresh spring water, then hang upside-down in a rack. I am not feeling this wine. I think we’d best give it a couple of hours before going back, but that sucks because we really want to sip it now. Hardly ever have we had a GOOD wine that we couldn’t enjoy right out of the bottle; the only wine that comes to mind that was not immediately drinkable but ended up being pretty darned good was the Pieve Del Vescovo Lucciaio Vendemmia 2002, which was only approachable after three or more hours.
OK … we’ll wait and see . . .
Several hours later the nose has only slightly improved, but the palate has not. The finish is simply awful. How can anybody consciously release a wine as bad as this at this price? At $6 I would not be complaining quite as much, perhaps, but then again I would likely not have bought it. If this is the quality of wine that you can produce in Long Island, and this is the price you must charge to make a profit, then you are clearly in the wrong business. Your land would be better used to plant organic vegetables for the local restaurants, or some other benevolent exploit, but not Merlot grapes. Sorry guys, but this wine is terrible. I like it only slightly better than the “Protocolo Red” I was forced to try once ($6); I mean, I am continuing to drink it, but largely only because I keep waiting for it to show me something more than this. But I don’t think there’s anything here to show, ergo nothing to wait for.
Another hour-and-a-half and there is some perfume that is starting to mask the chemical smell, and sometimes the smell is not objectionable, but that is not what one wants form a wine: an occasional OK aroma. We do not like this wine; this wine sucks, in all honesty. And that is all that needs to be said. Do not drink this beverage, and if you do, do not confuse it with good, actual wine; it is best to consider it an experiment by those who wish they could make good wine. If this winery wishes for us to give a second opinion, or to try another offering, we are open, but please do not sell this liquid to the general public and call it wine!
(Click here for an explanation of our ratings ...)
Our Rating: 65
Would we drink it again? 
What do you think?
Would we buy it again?
Never ... in fact, I would like a refund!
Winemaker's notes
We declassified the 2004 so that no First Label was produced in this year. Instead, we combined lots from older vines and our finest vineyard areas that in the past were slated for First Label only. The result is what we believe to be Long Island’s best value in the price category. The 2004 vintage is soft and round yet still fruity with subtle influences of toasty oak. The Merlot is on its own in this wine, providing gentle tannic structure and dense mouth feel. Partially fermented in stainless steel at 75 degrees F. to retain the bright aromatics. 100% Merlot in the tradition of a St. Emillion petit chateau.
The 2004 vintage saw a return to normal growing conditions with average rainfall and temperatures. The summer was fairly dry but slightly cooler than normal, which allowed our Merlot to retain bright acidity and fresh aromatics. A delicate and elegant vintage, similar to the wines made in 2000.
About the Winery: Raphael
Established in 1996, Raphael is Long Island’s premier vineyard and winery estate. Located on the North Fork of Long Island, in the hamlet of Peconic, the winery is dedicated primarily to the production of Merlot. The wines reflect both the Long Island terroir and the spirit of a great Bordeaux chateau, with its attention to detail and devotion to quality in every aspect of grape growing and wine making.
Raphael’s approach is based on the philosophy that wine is grown, not made, and combines the best of centuries-old tradition with scientific progress; it is the first Long Island property to form a partnership with Bordeaux. The estate is guided by its consulting enologist, M. Paul Pontallier, Managing Director of Chateau Margaux. Raphael is Mr. Pontallier's only United States client. The philosophy is one of constant awareness—of the cycle of nature, the climate and soil, the ripeness of the grapes and the success of time-honored techniques. As is the case in any new wine region, techniques, equipment, and ideas are constantly being improved as more knowledge is gained. At Raphael, this is viewed as an on-going process, and one that will continue for generations. The emphasis is on ripe, fruit-driven wines that exhibit a marriage of strength, finesse, elegance, and balance provided first by the terroir and secondly, by the dedicated, impassioned attention of the hand of man.
About the North Fork of Long Island Region
Bordeaux is the word that springs to mind...and palate...for many who’ve experienced the complex elegance of Long Island reds, particularly those from the North Fork where most of the island’s 3,000 acres of vineyards and 30 wineries are located. The Bordeaux comparison really isn’t so far fetched. Some attribute it to the fact that the most planted grapes on the North Fork are the Bordeaux varieties Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, but these same grapes are found in vineyards from here to California, rarely yielding the same result. What makes North Fork reds so Bordeaux-esque is the climate. Three great bodies of Gulf Stream-influenced water surround the narrow peninsula. Long Island Sound is to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the south, and in the middle, splitting the two forks, is Peconic Bay. All three create a very moderate climate and an extended growing season that is over a month longer than other New York wine regions. However, maritime climates are susceptible to unpredictable autumn weather, and some vintages can end in a wet harvest and disappointing wines. Even this downside of the North Fork AVA rings of Bordeaux, where vintage variation has always been a fact of life and an important part of marketing.
